Archive for July, 2009

Order and Chaos Pt. 1

Wednesday, July 29, 2009 @ 07:07 PM
posted by: admin

Politically this has been one of the most interesting, unpredictable of my many visits to Nepal. Last year there were the elections, and even though we didn’t know who would win, we knew that order would be restored. Nowadays, we seemed to have had the orderly running of government with all of its problems and machinations, until the Prime Minister (Puspa Dahal, Maoist party) who has been stalemated by the opposition coalition, unexpectedly resigned in May. I think that he pretty much acted alone in this decision and did not have the backing of the party, so I get the sense that this reflects leadership and personal integrity. I remarked to several Nepalis that when someone voluntarily gives up this much power, you have lost an honest man. No one wants to argue that point with me, but it is taking a big political risk. What’s more to the point is that the other parties were stonewalling every reform the Maoists would push and nothing was getting accomplished. Better to quit, and not be blamed for failing! So, after two to three weeks of a power vacuum, a new coalition of three major oppositional parties have gained the majority and have installed a new Prime Minister. His name, appropriately, is Mr. (Madhav) Nepal of the United Marxist-Leninist Party (don’t be fooled: Nepal is of the conservative upper-caste and the party is conservative, not left-wing, and certainly not liberal). The tables are now turned, and the Maoist party is beside itself, thwarting and protesting with parliamentary backbiting and maneuvering. Fortunately, it has all been pretty peaceful with just a few demonstrations here and there.

I mention all this because the former Prime Minister Puspa Dahal (the Maoist leader who is also known as Prachanda) was compromised by major problems: the delays in getting a new constitution written and approved, removing a conservative general who was blocking the unification of the Maoist People’s Liberation Army with the National Army, and the strikes and highway blockades along the Kings Highway. This last one was of immediate importance to KTM and much of the country because it meant fuel shortages and escalating prices as goods could not get to their markets. For us the strikes and blockades kept us in KTM as we were unable to ply the highways to visit our schools beyond the KTM Valley.

So, as soon as PM Dahal announced his resignation, the highway blockades were rendered ineffective (so who now has the power to make the concessions being demanded?). Som, read this immediately, and so the very next morning saw all of us (Som and his bride Nisha, our co-director Bal, our volunteer from France Gaelle and I) at the airport at 7 AM catching a flight to Biratnagar in the southeast corner of Nepal. We have been doing this corner of Nepal for 6 years now and it went like clockwork: By 10 AM we had landed and our TATA jeep arrived with Kamal, our driver; by the early afternoon, we had visited two schools in as many cities; and as night was falling, we found ourselves doing two more schools in Dharan.  Unfortunately, it was so dark, that some of our photos didn’t turn out and we had to send Chanak back to reshoot a few of the children.

Dharan is one of the cleaner, more modern cities in Nepal because it was largely occupied by the British who used it as a training center for the British Gurkha Army. They have now largely vacated and turned over their facilities to the Nepalis, including a huge, modern hospital, renamed the B. B. Khoirala Memorial Hospital. It is one of, if not “The” best medical training facilities in Nepal. Here we had the help of our two nursing students, Saraswoti and Mamata, who are doing extremely well in their programs! Saraswoti, in fact, has far outdistanced her classmates and is “class topper.” It is very difficult to be selected to nursing school, and then to have them be selected by the top school in the nation, and both of them operating on the summit, makes me wonder what would have happened to such talent if ANSWER hadn’t been here!

We have just learned that one of the students we have been supporting in pre-Engineering had won a full scholarship to a top school in KTM two years ago. Now ready to move on into Engineering he has won a full scholarship to a prominent Engineering School in India AND an invitation and travel expenses to Mexico for two weeks at the Science Olympiad! Rohan is from the rural area and never would have been able to afford high school, much less college if it weren’t for our sponsors’ support.

Our Nursing Students

I might add that every one of our nursing students, eight overall, have done or are doing extremely well. We have one nurse Monika, who graduated earlier this year, has taken on a job in Benares, India as there are no ICU training facilities in Nepal! She will be back in Nepal training other nurses before long, of that you can be sure. Dina was our first nurse to graduate, and was very near the top in the Certification Exam two or three years ago and has been practicing since ever since. Her 3 year program made her a staff nurse, and now she wants to go back for another 3 years to become a fully degreed nurse…we have promised to help as we know that she is not only dedicated to working in Nepal, but to helping ANSWER. A few weeks ago, we organized the ANSWER ALUMNAE ASSOCIATION (Triple A), the follow-up club to our Social Welfare Club for our high-schoolers. This ill-conceived idea was to further develop social responsibility in our young people. It was immediately embraced by our college students and graduates that when I suggested a slight membership fee, say 50 Rupees per year, they made it 500 Rupees! Dina was selected to be its first president.  Most of them wanted to start sponsoring ANSWER children on their own, contribute to our college fund, be part of our oversight team, help in presenting Social Welfare Club, etc. All I had to do is remind them that they received their education because all of you on the other side of the world cared enough to help them. What can I say, but “Thank you one and all …..your legacy continues to grow.”

Uma, Paru, Neha, Santoshi are studying in their last year of nursing school, all above average, and Uma is in a close third position to the top! All are such great young women who want to help their nation, so we have little to fear from the brain drain! Uma wants to go out to the remote villages to practice, and then go on to do a full degree in nursing. The nurses form a key nidus around which the other AAA grads are coalescing.

I have yet to mention Binita, our most recent nurse.  Binita is from a very poor family, from the high and remote village of Jiri in the foothills of Mt Everest.  Her family has so little that she was lucky to make it through the government school there and could hardly speak English. Yet, she did so well on the National (SLC) exam that she won a seat in a nursing school in KTM. Her younger brother came down with her to KTM and worked to help support her. Then at the end of her first year of nursing school, he was hit by a vehicle and died! Binita, now her parents’ only surviving child, was without any financial support and was going to have to withdraw from school. Uma, knowing our rules discouraging our taking on new college students, still had the courage to bring Binita to our attention. So, thanks to a couple in Seattle who sponsored her, she was able to finish her last two years of nursing school and assumed a position in a hospital. However, two weeks into her new job she collapsed on the floor and had a seizure. Had this been in her village, there would have been no one to help, but this happened on the job, in a hospital in KTM, and she was transferred and worked up in the Neuro Hospital and diagnosis with cerebral TB! Placed on antibiotics, she was out of the hospital in a week with no subsequent seizures. Binita is working again, and will have a follow-up CT within a month to see if the lesion is, in fact, resolving. Her hospitalization, treatment, including the Cat-scans, comes to $200, all covered by our medical fund. There They are the ones who

So, behind each of these children are not just you the  sponsors, but many non-sponsors who want to help. Most don’t want the “ownership” of sponsoring a child but have contributed to our medical fund protecting our “little investments” from catastrophic illnesses/accidents! To all of you, all of us are so very grateful to you.

Back on Track from Dharan

As I was saying, we now have the southeast corner down: we spent the night in Dharan, this time far enough away from the Central Bus Park so as not to be awakened by the unrelenting horn blasting of the buses which begins at 3AM! So, with a good night’s sleep, we were up early to retrace our route south and then to the very SE corner of Nepal. We have had a half dozen children suddenly up and move, but have been fairly successful in reestablishing the link. The reasons are varied but all related to the fact that these families are really living on the edge and have to move in order to survive. One girl has eluded us, despite two years of searching, because creditors are after them and if relatives know anything they won’t divulge. Educating their child is the least of their worries, and so they are probably hiding out in India. Another family moved from the KTM Valley to this corner of Nepal and did not inform us, nor did the school (hoping to extract another term’s payment from us before informing us—but that’s another story!). The father was accepted to work as a migrant worker in Dubai, but had been living apart from his family to take care of his father. Now the mother and child have to move here to care for his father! Fortunately, Som was able to locate little Smriti and enroll her in a local school. Smriti is in the 3rd grade with a straight A average so without ANSWER, a real opportunity would be lost! This is a lot of work for us, but at least it puts us in contact with new schools and students, which in the end works out well for everyone. By the afternoon of Day Two we had visited four schools in as many cities, made our payments, met the children, collected their report cards, distributed sponsor letters to them and had them write their response letters. We generally average about 4-7 students per school, so a stop usually takes a couple of hours, be it one child or a dozen.

So, having covered the SE corner, we had nowhere to go but begin our western journey all across Nepal. Somewhere along the way, however, we came to our first blockade. These were local Maoists who were protesting the recent resignation of their Prime Minister. The highway blockades are de-ja-vu for us, but this time we were at a loss. We were headed back towards KTM, so posing as a doctor sent out to rescue a village child wouldn’t fly this time. So, we waited for about half an hour hoping the local authorities would arrive on the scene and do something. Finally, Kamal our driver pulled out a book and placed it on the dash, said something to Som, and then waved to the Maoists to come and talk. Gaelle and I were to get out our foreign passports. Kamal told the Maoists that we were Human Rights investigators and that we needed passage. He showed him an old ID card which showed him to be under the employment of a Norwegian Human Rights Agency. They disputed that because they couldn’t read the English card. Then, he pointed to the thick text on the dashboard in Nepali script about Human Rights and then they backed off…The Nepali book title confirmed what Kamal was telling them. They then backed away from the car…raised their automatic weapons and blasted us at point blank range. The car was riddled with bullet holes. We were covered in blood. Som and Bal were breathing their last…….and I, and I….

No, no, no. That was just dramatic license! They then backed away, smiled, and waved us through. Maoists have to respect Human Rights, and also Bideshis (foreigners). As soon as we were out of sight, we whooped it up, patted Kamal on the shoulder, and promised him a big tip! So, if any of you are thinking I am brave and courageous, or conversely, dumb and stupid, I can only say it is more the latter and definitely not the former. However, I am fortunate to have really knowledgeable, careful, and extremely timid staff.

As the sun was beginning to set, we had made it to the Koshi River which was the site of mass flooding during last year’s monsoon. The flooding was a result of silting behind the dam on the Indian border, and the river actually changed course taking out villages, roads and bridges. I think something like 20,000 Nepalis lost their homes and are still living in tent camps waiting for some kind of compensation from the government. As we crossed the flood zone, we could see a huge expanse of sand which had buried their once fertile fields. We drove through miles of what seemed like desert and all around were Indian and Nepali construction crews trying to reestablish levees and rebuild roads before the coming monsoon in a month and a half.

Where the road ended was a plowed track in the sand over which everyone had to pass for a couple of miles in order to meet up with the road on the other side. Just as one turns onto the sand, a huge truck was listing to one side with a broken axle. Quickly the traffic backed up as cars slowed to go around, that is, until a little minivan with a dozen people crammed inside and a ton of luggage on the roof-rack tried to go around  the truck, hit a soft spot in the sand, and dug its own grave. Dozens of people then gathered around the minivan to push, but only succeeded in pushing it deeper into its grave. After about an hour a great big land mover with a cable managed onto the scene and towed it out, and then re-blazed a new track for all of us. People all gathered around to gawk at arm’s length, as the front loader gently pulled back on the tether, and I was sure that something would snap sending the cable thrashing about like an angry cobra wiping out dozens of people on every side. Luckily and happily, it didn’t happen, but stupid stuff like that happens all the time here because people’s curiosity and innocence gets the better of them—like the time during the war the bomb squad in KTM was called in to disarm a bomb left on a bridge. Of course the bomb squad attracted a lot of attention, and rubberneckers gathered all around the bomb to see them at work…when it was accidentally detonated. There were plenty of casualties from a bomb that was originally intended only to get people’s attention.

Well, the Maoists and the Dunes slowed us down so that we didn’t get to our hotel in Lahan until well into the night. Tired and hungry I was in no mood to discover that our hotel which had an 8-page menu full of great delights could only serve us more rice and lentils! I hate this hotel, anyway, as last year I was almost electrocuted in the shower when the ill-fitting showerhead let loose with a spray that went all over everywhere, including the hot light bulb over the sink, shattering glass everywhere. I went ballistic because if it happened to me, it had obviously happened a dozen times before, and all they do is replace the bulb, not repair the showerhead. Som, who would have been among the innocent gawkers watching the defusing of a bomb had he been there, cannot understand why I was so upset when a bulb blows leaving me in the dark with broken glass and water underfoot and the spray now striking the live socket! If a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, imagine how dangerous it is when they think this is funny!

Last year one of our principals was electrocuted when he was hosing down the dirt and grime around some new classrooms that were being constructed. No one had bothered to disconnect the 30,000 Volt line lying live on the ground next to the classrooms! As soon as the line and the stream met, the principal was knocked unconscious, but was somehow revived. Fortunately, he was near an airport and med-evacked to KTM by air and treated immediately. It took months of hospitalization and rehab before he was able to return. Fortunately, the only evidence of this mishap are the severe burn scars running from his hand, up his arm, down his torso and legs where the water and current passed through and over his body. This happens all the time: I read about another electrocution at a school just like this of a 9th grade student in today’s newspaper, but he succumbed. An angry crowd, led by relatives of the boy, stormed the hospital and trashed it and beat up doctors and nurses for “letting him die.” Hey, what about the school? There are seat belt laws, and seat belts in the cars, but no one wears them. When I buckle up in a cab, half the time the belt hasn’t been used in months. How do I know?: I have a dirt smudge running diagonally down my shirt as if I had been a guerrilla fighter wearing a bandalero.

Well, anyway that night back at this hotel, Gaelle and I were sharing a roadside room on the second floor. The shower was the same dangerous set up: situated ominously over a light fixture, but the plumbing was tight. However, we discovered that there was a wedding reception happening across the street with a live band blowing their lungs out…we were immediately intrigued and watched from afar. But as the night wore on, so did the band. It was 80-90 degrees outside (at night), and if we closed the window, the noise was effectively muted. However, the inside temperature would soon climb another 20 degrees, even with the fan on full-throttle. All night long, one or the other of us would get up and open or close the window when either the noise or the heat became intolerable. Even so, I was in much better spirits the next morning knowing we were out of that 2-star rat hole.

The Bloodbath on the Sabbath

Wednesday, July 29, 2009 @ 07:07 PM
posted by: admin

This past weekend has been a memorable, eventful Memorial Weekend.

First, despite predictions of the monsoon arriving to the Katmandu Valley on June 10th this year, it sure seemed like it was two weeks early: the rains, which have for the past week been off and on, are now mostly on. Today, there is a gentle shower and the traffic noise is muted, the air is clean once again. The downside is my socks are wet, and my pants spattered with mud. Most of the “load-shedding” (rationing of electricity on the grid with scheduled district-wide blackouts) has been lifted, and the cybercafés are open and back to normal operating hours. I sleep much better as my fan overhead spins all night long. I typically wake up in the dead of night in a sweat whenever the power is shut off and fan comes to a stop (any images you might have of me as Bogey in Casa Blanca, with my shirt half opened and sweat running down my temples is understandable as I have lost 20 lbs these past two months—Play it again, Shyam).

If the arrival of the monsoon is not cause célèbre enough, this weekend marks the installment of the new Prime Minister, three weeks after the Maoist Leader Prachanda (aka Puspa Dahal) unexpectedly resigned. The new Prime Minister is appropriately named Madhav Nepal, so if anyone should ask you an “is-the-Pope-Catholic” question, you can reference the obvious with the response “Is Nepal the Prime Minister of Nepal?” Anyway, Mr. Nepal is of the 3rd largest political party (the UML, United Maoist-Leninist Party) which, despite the name and communist vantage, is actually very conservative. The upper-caste dignitaries rule these large, long-established parties, and so they will not champion, nor even support meaningful reform. Now that the tables are turned, the Maoists will now use the minority parties to obstruct even conservative measures. So, politically it is looking like the democratic experiment may well stagnate as the country slides into multi-party, multi-ethnic bickering. Nepal awaits a strong man to unite the country before India starts slicing up the melon and engorging it bite by bite.

However, the disturbing event of this weekend was the bombing of a Catholic Church in Patan, which abuts Katmandu to the south. In Nepal, Saturday is the only day off for school children and the working stiffs, but there are a myriad of holidays. People will visit Hindu or Buddhist temples and shrines every day, or any day they feel inclined, but Saturday is the Sabbath in Nepal when Christians attend church or mass. And so, last Saturday, a woman in a black sari attended a mass at the Church of the Assumption in Katmandu (Patan actually). In the middle of the service she asked a woman next to her to watch a satchel/purse for her until she returned. Inside was a bomb embedded with nails. When it exploded, two young people (a tenth grade student and a young newlywed) were killed and fifteen injured. The church was not seriously damaged, and a memorial service was held in the same sanctuary the next day. Prime Minister Nepal (you remember Mr. Nepal!) visited some of the injured in the hospital. No one has stepped forward to claim responsibility for this act.

When it comes to bombings, everyone thinks “Maoists”, but more often than not the bombs are deliberately set to frighten not to kill. This was unquestionably and anti-personnel device! If there is “collateral damage”, the Maoists often apologize and sometimes make compensation. The modus operandi for the radical Youth Communist League or the Communist Student Association is one of confrontation and blatant publicity. To date no one has claimed responsibility. If it were a Maoist organization, and I have my doubts, they now realize that they haven’t won any supporters.

This is so out of character with the Nepali frame of mind and their tolerance for religion that the newspapers are full of letters and editorials decrying this senseless act. There are Islamic mosques, Hindu temples, Buddhist monasteries, and Christian churches strewn all over this city. True enough: up until the people threw out the King establishing a Republic a year ago, Nepal was the world’s only Hindu nation. But the Hindu majority also played a large part in ousting the King in this “modernist revision.” Of course, there are also a few Hindu fundamentalists who regard the King as an avatar (an incarnation/manifestation) of the Lord Vishnu that harkens back to the divine right of Kings in the West. These right-wing zealots are juggernauts of the kind who assassinated Mahatma Gandhi. They are all over India, perhaps some in the rebellious Terai of southern Nepal. The Christians are not strong in the Terai, so it doesn’t make sense that they would vent their anger on them.

There is yet another theory–underworld extortion. I don’t know much about this except that Som is very nervous about standing up to one particular ethnic group in Nepal in which there is a strong syndicate, the Nepali “Sicilians” if you will. We had one boy that we bent over backwards to help, bringing him down from the mountains, enrolling him in a good school, and installing him in a hostel. When in the 10th grade, we told his rich uncle that he would have to assume financial responsibility of the hostel, he flew into a rage, and Som insisted that WE cover the cost for his final year of high school instead of running any risk of retribution. We unloaded him after he graduated. The interesting thing about this ethnic group is that they are from the mountains where a lot of missionaries have had conversion successes, so it is conceivable that it was more than just money, but a warning to all that they want their people to preserve their religious identity.

Everyone I ask has a different take on “who dunnit,” but religious slayings like this hit me hard personally because it is so much against what I hold sacred. I temper any thought of blame with trying to understand the mentality of the guilty. Last summer in Knoxville TN, a disturbed, estranged man Jim Adkisson walked into the Unitarian-Universalist Church there carrying a guitar case while the children were performing “Annie”. He opened up the case, and pulled out a sawed-off shotgun and blasted away, killing two people and injuring five others. During the memorial service the next day, the children bravely sang, “The Sun Will Come out Tomorrow.” In the front seat of his truck they found right-wing, hate literature. He was a loner, divorced and unemployed, and of course, in his eyes, the liberals in America were no doubt to blame. Somehow, I could only feel pity for him and for the large percentage of the Rosh Limbaugh crowd just like him. Mr. Adkisson was simply an uneducated southern white male with low self-esteem, trying to get by, and with his welfare checks about to run out, he was becoming more desperate by the day. He could have easily found his way into any cult, ala Charles Manson, David Koresh, or James Jones, or he might have been referred by a social worker for counseling. Tim McVey, also an estranged loner, received his inspiration from visiting the ruins of the well-armed Branch Dravidians at Waco, TX. Jim Adkisson, instead, received his prophecy from Rosh Limbaugh, et al.

Not understanding what is to be gained by killing innocent children and parishioners, I have been mourning the slaughter of the innocents over the past few days by myself. Without Mary Jane here, I grieve alone. And so yesterday, when I received an unexpected email from Rev Jill McAllister of Peoples Church in Kalamazoo, I poured out some of my pain to Jill. There I was in a cybercafé, quietly sobbing, with tears flowing as I typed away—I am sure everyone thought my lover had left me! Jill is a true minister…her caring response has helped me to share this with you. Her message, right on key, is that there are some things that we may not be able to understand, but we must learn to accept the world as it is, the bad with the good. Acceptance! I wallow in self-pity of being unable to make sense of the incomprehensible while others are suffering real loses. Writing you about these experiences is a part of my therapy: if not my grieving, then my own blindness?

Now my grief, a la Kűbler-Ross, turns to anger: Don’t tell me that Rosh or the Grand Dragons represent the Christian right or that Osama bin Ladin is a devout Muslim! They are self-serving ideologues, religious opportunists. To see them desecrate the very thing that is intrinsic to all beliefs (e.g., the Sanctity of Life, The Golden Rule, God is Love, Love thy neighbor) for their own personal causes and vendettas is so blatantly immoral. Where do these High Priests who feed racial and political hate get their inspiration, their conceit?  It is not from fear nor ignorance as Osama and the WTC highjackers were well-to-do, well-educated, and fearless…yet, blatantly filled with venom. We can be sure that their hate did not originate from any sense of compassion or concern for their fellow dispossessed countrymen! These people are driven by hate and feed it to those in desperate situations. Tim McVey and Jim Adkisson, as heinous as their crimes are, were simply acting alone (or nearly so)—victims of their own hate. They worked alone, not as part of a greater framework. For them I feel great pity and sorrow. They are not the High Priests of Hate, the incarnates of Hitler, Stalin, or Milosovic, promulgating hate and vengeance, commanding the armies, and exploiting the minions to commit genocide.

Rev. Marilyn Sewell of the Portland (OR) UU Church in her recent Blog also mentions the Knoxville massacre while highlighting a newly recognized psychological disorder designated “Embitterment” by the American Psychological Association (APA). She prefers to call it “Ahab Syndrome” after the anti-hero in Moby Dick. As you recall, Capt Ahab sacrificed his ship and his crew to “get back” at the great white whale for taking his leg. Rev. Sewell then references a woman, suffering from Ahab Syndrome, who was losing custody of her children and was “striking back” at her ex-husband by pushing her two young children off a bridge (one died, one was rescued). Revenge through displaced anger is what we are witnessing. This is not “the Devil made me do it!”

Now, imagine a Palestinian widow who has just lost her only son to a rocket barrage. What does the future hold for her—she is a liability to her husband’s family, remarriage is not a possibility, begging on the street may be her only option. Where is there hope for her? Imagine her embitterment, ripe for exploitation.

As disturbing as these cases of bombings and child-murder are, is the pronouncement by the American Psychological Association that “embitterment victims” cannot be effectively treated or rehabilitated. Once a bomber, always a bomber? I think you can say the same thing about end-stage cancer. Maybe we need to do a better job with early diagnosis and treatment of embitterment before it becomes end-stage. Perhaps it is too late to redeem the high priests of embitterment, and one can only be put them away; but for Jim Adkisson and the woman in the black sari, I can’t help but feel that the APA simply doesn’t know how to rehabilitate them with medication and a couch…they have yet to introduce acceptance, love and hope into the DSM treatment book. We start by reaching out and providing some hope to ward off the desperation and fear.

What I have witnessed working with the poor in Nepal is that opportunities to work and learn provide them with that hope. Hope does not spring from entitlements or relief programs; it comes with empowerment whether it is a warm embrace or a micro-financing venture. Certainly, mothers and babies need WIC, children may need a free breakfast, and families need health coverage, but don’t think that these are providing hope. This is simply relief aid, and never more than just enough to get by. What the West is doing (or NOT doing) in Darfur, Somalia and our inner cities, is simply maintaining the status quo. It is disempowering, and doesn’t address the issue of hope.

When we educate just one child per disadvantaged family, we have instilled hope for their future. When we then tell them that they must provide one school uniform or a daily lunch, they are empowered to help in educating that child and feel like a participant. As I visit the schools, parents come up to me with their children in uniform beaming with pride, pointing first to their child and then to themselves, and say, “Ama” (See! I am the mother of this student). When I think of the woman in the black sari, she is anything but a proud Ama. She must have been just as desperate about her own condition as any jihadists blowing herself up in a crowded mosque.

I believe Capt Ahab could have reconciled with the whale. Where were his loved ones, his wife, children, mother? We are the repair mechanics and we have all the tools. Loners need love and hope, too, counseling and casseroles as needed. Ahab was a loner like Jim Adkisson and Tim McVey. I think we can forge a world in which genocidal armies have few recruits if we reach out and embrace everyone with love and hope and appropriate assistance.

As for the high Priests such as Rosh Limbaugh: he is a marshmallow! He is in pain, addicted to drugs, fame and fortune. He too is hurting inside (of what no one seems to have analyzed….maybe it is about time some of us ask). I believe Jesus would turn the other cheek and disarm Limbaugh with love and charity. I think that Obama knows the danger in attacking Rosh instead of embracing him, but I am not so sure his advisors do. Too many of us cheer when Obama unloads an assault, and that looks good to the pollsters and his advisors. But Rosh is speaking to millions, and so we all have to own the problem and reach out to his audience. But there will always be more Roshes and more Osamas if we don’t all reach out to their base. In the end, Limbaugh will die a withered old man destroyed by hate, or become a repentant convert, like so many fundamentalist preachers who have strayed.

A repentant Rosh? To have witnessed the evolution of George Wallace from a powerful racist governor to a wheel-chair bound man reaching out to the southern black, admitting he was wrong, is to realize that Ahab syndrome can be treated, even cured, even in seemingly end-stage scenarios! We all have the seeds of transformation within. It takes years to be sure, but it comes from trying to understand “the other side.” And how much easier and quicker to grasp if others are reaching out to help! A few months ago I read an article about an 80-year old white man who was on the battlefront in Selma in the 1960s bashing black heads. When asked about his transformation, he admitted that it had taken decades to slowly come to understand his own ignorance. Finally, he searched out and located his black victim in the Potomac area, and asked for his forgiveness. He received it and was warmly embraced: I can still picture the photo of two old men, smiling with tears in their eyes, arms around each other as if they were long lost brothers. Those are the acts we need to focus on. Such life stories give us hope for even the high-priests: political hate mongers, racial bigots, religious zealots and for all sides in the Middle East. When Barack Obama came out and defended his Church, explaining the vehemence of Rev. Wright, he used his grandmother’s fear of black men as a set point for those outside the Black Experience to understand the fear and resentment that others face. I don’t know what it is going to take to awaken Rosh, but somewhere deep down is a lot of hurt and fear. Let us tap into it.

I want to give a final example about reaching out. Gaelle is a young French woman who contacted me through e-mail because she wanted to visit Nepal and help. She has been volunteering with ANSWER here, tutoring at Hopeful Home and visiting schools to assist the children. She has learned English since her early childhood, lived in the US, and speaks English with only the slightest accent, and has been a wonderful addition. Her understanding of America far surpasses my understanding of France, so our conversations have more often been from my vantage point, trying to understand hers. Although we share many political views, when asked about the national prohibition of Muslim girls wearing headscarves in the French public schools, Gaelle assured me that this is now passé and widely accepted. However, the French witnessed the despair of their Muslim community a couple of years back with their own version of Watts: the conflagration of the Paris ghettos in the suburbs of Paris. So passé, or not, I countered, “Au contraire,” and asked if banning headscarves hasn’t led to further alienation of French Muslims and the opening of private Islamic schools in France? “Probably,” she admitted. Then I asked, “Well, are Christian girls in France allowed to wear necklaces with a cross, and Jews yamikas?” She couldn’t reconcile this and conceded my point. Where’s the reaching out to the Muslims?

I have not heard of anyone proscribing dirty smudges on the forehead of Christians on Ash Wednesday or forbidding the wearing of green or a tee shirt “Kiss Me, I’m Irish” on St. Patrick’s Day.  So, prohibiting headscarves seems to be simply an expression of religious and ethnic intolerance. What we need to be upholding in the schools is “respecting self and others” by banning ball caps indoors, wearing trousers at half mask, bare mid-drifts, body piercing and tattoos?  (So, what do you do with a kid with a swastika emblazoned on his arm? Serious family counseling, to start!) No Doubt Ben Franklin, John Adams, and Thomas Jefferson had the foresight to protect religious freedom because they all lived in France during times of wide-spread religious persecution! But not just in France: it was while Ben Franklin was in England that personally invited Joseph Priestly, a Unitarian minister and renowned scientist of the time (he discovered oxygen), to migrate to America when an English mob burned down his church! Someone told me that Obama’s grandmother was a Unitarian, and I think about his father a Muslim, and he ends up in a Black Protestant Church in Chicago. Today we can go church hopping as if we were tasting ice cream flavors at Baskins and Robbins…what a wonderful thing to have so many choices! Be able to choose and reject, sure beats burning at the stake. Despite the bombings, we have come a long ways.

Postscript: Well, two weeks have now gone by since I started this missive. I keep waiting for the investigation into the bombing of the Church of the Assumption to reveal the bomber and her motives, so I can have closure as well as this epistle.  At last we have some news, although not complete, it seems that our bomber is named Sita Sitaula, and sure enough she is a loner. She has an intercaste marriage (unacceptable by many), married with no children, her husband is working abroad in Malaysia, and she seems to be estranged from her husband’s family. Somehow, she was talked into bombing the church by the Nepal Defense Army, a radical fringe group that purports to be Maoist, but is not part of the Maoist Party. It is really a band of thugs that lives on extortion. It murdered a Catholic priest last year when he refused to pay them. In a similar MO, the NDA targeted the Catholic Church when it refused to pay “protection money.”  The leader of the NDA is on Nepal’s Most Wanted List, but he has to date eluded capture. I am still unclear how Sita was talked into targeting the Church, but Som thinks he read in the Nepali papers about her alienation from her Christian in-laws and that she may be mentally unstable—another desperate soul who just needed some help and never got it.

Flashing back to arranged marriages in Nepal in my previous letter “A Wedding”, how else can such unions be so successful? They are accepted as the modus operandi by the culture, and accepted by husband and wife, and from this, love can grow. I can also assure you that a Nepali man, just as in the West, has no comprehension about who his wife is, and vice versa. That question is never considered! Neither do either of them ask the question, “Who am I?” They accept things as they are, and go on with life…eventually love and understanding will grow, I am sure. So, I think we can overcome a lot of things, even embitterment, if we forego the understanding, and simply begin to accept our differences. We can even celebrate them together. Our Nepali college students, with no comprehension of Anglo-Saxon traditions, are sending their sponsors Christmas, Halloween, and Valentine emails, trying to participate in our holidays.  Likewise, in their letters our children are describing their festivals to us. Even though we don’t understand, we share and revel in each other’s holiday joy.

How can we get to acceptance? Usually what we react to, what we fear and what we hate, is simply something within us we don’t understand, or worse, something we don’t want to accept. It all comes down to not so much to understanding others, but understanding ourselves (don’t worry if your husband doesn’t understand you—that’s not even the issue!). I will be the first to admit that I don’t understand myself: Why I have to do what I do? From whence derives my passion? Why am I so deeply and personally affected by all that goes on around me? or How can I be so ego-centric on the one hand and so caring of others on the other? I think I would go insane if I really went all out and devoted myself to understanding Me. But like sex, I think I have come to accept and take pride in the whoever I am, however weird, and use my time in ways that are meaningful to me. This may be a “shallow existence” ultimately, but I can accept that, too.

And so for me, the means is to explore and ultimately accept the incomprehensible in ourselves and in the world. The ends is sharing and helping each other, celebrating the differences. I even think one can come to love oneself and others this way. So, loving your neighbor as thyself, and even thine enemies, is a natural derivative of an expanding love within.

When we walk out the door, or write a letter or an email, or place a call, we have an opportunity to connect with the world. We have all had that experience when a smile, a kind word, or a funny story, not just makes us smile, but makes our day. Think how much more sharing our joys, our sorrows, our fears, our understanding and our resources, can bring us together. In fact, this is the only reason I can come up with for why we are here on this planet: sharing and caring for others, and you can extend it to the entire biosphere. I was reinforced in this belief when I met with 30-40 of our graduates and college students last week. They all wanted to form their own organization in order to begin giving back to Nepali society, “We have to help others, like our sponsors helped us!” If any of you thought you were simply educating a needy child, you sold yourself short! Thank you all for sharing your resources, your letters and photos, your lives with the children. You have produced enlightened, sharing, caring children of the highest order. Thank you for sharing my sorrows, thoughts, and joys here. Your sharing and caring have great power and are the source of my strength…and the strength for many others. Don’t forget it.

A Wedding

Wednesday, July 29, 2009 @ 07:07 PM
posted by: admin

My first Nepali wedding was unforgettable. I spent all day first at the bride’s house, and obediently showed up early. I had absolutely nothing to do but be a token of adoration as “the American Doctor” and was carefully introduced to all the relatives on her side of the family and then and more importantly meeting all the relatives on his side (See whom we know!). When at last it was time to go to the wedding site (an open field with tents erected and a cloth barrier encircling half a football field), I was thoroughly bewildered, worn out, hot and hungry. There, the wedding ceremony droned on and on and I was too tired to stand in line to receive the feast, so I waited another hour for the line to work itself down. At last, I got some left-over chicken and rice.  On the way home, I began feeling ill and chocked it up to the taxi ride, but as soon as I reached home, I was throwing up and expelling the tainted food that had been incubating organisms all day long.  Years later I have yet to overcome my aversion to Nepali weddings, and so I always try to arrive late and leave early.

Honeymoon 1A couple of months ago, some of us on our Board started to get emails from our Country Director Som Raj (or Som) hinting that the time was now ripe for him to remarry. His first marriage was an inter-caste “love-marriage”: he of the Brahmin caste and his then beloved of the Chetri (Kșatriya) or warrior caste, just one step down the caste ladder from Brahmin. In some villages, such an affront to tradition would mean stoning if caught, even today, so such as association would require the couple to elope and live in the city, forever castaways. Som and his bride had relatively understanding parents and allowed it, but the marriage was wrought with problems from the start, exacerbated by in-laws and disappointed expectations.  That was about 5 years ago, and a lot of water has gone under the bridge since then, not the least of which Som, now 32 yo, has grown a lot via the school of hard knocks.

Honeymoon 2However, their divorce has tainted their “marriageability”, and finding a willing and understanding partner and family is not as easy as it would otherwise be. Since his “love marriage” failed, Som felt that he should respect his parent’s advice this time and opted for an “arranged marriage.” Som holds a number of impressive credentials. He is the director of an American organization, has traveled abroad with visits to the US and UK, holds a 5 year multiple entry US visa, and is now a householder. Still, he and his relatives were having a heck of a time finding a willing and “suitable” prospect.

Visit with sponsorsWhen I arrived on the 11th of April, there was the possible prospect he was to meet, but by the 12th there was another submission, and on the morning of the 13th I was invited to meet that candidate Nisha and her uncle. This was their first and only meeting, and lasted about 90 minutes and all that remained was to set the date. That afternoon we picked up our 3 sponsors and a volunteer at the airport and explained to them that there was a slight change in our schedule as they were invited to Som’s wedding on the 15th, the earliest date that was in sync with the stars (there are astrologers that must be consulted for the most auspicious date). It was certainly understandable that Som couldn’t be at the airport to greet our incoming sponsors on the 13th as he had only 36 hrs to complete the wedding arrangements.

Visit to  school children's parentsOn the afternoon of the 14th Som combined trips to get a fresh haircut and to stop by the guesthouse to meet and make travel arrangements with all of us. He had dark circles under his eyes, his “Katmandu Koff” which had been resolving but was still holding, and it was clear that Som’s sense of mission had displaced his better judgment. Why Nisha assented to a marriage after only just two days is something no Westerner can understand. Why Som assented to a quick marriage is simple: expediency and over-dedication to the job: ANSWER Űberalles.

Wedding 2Nevertheless, the wedding went off as planned. All of us met at Som’s house the next morning and stood around taking photos of the wedding party. All our nursing students were “maids of honor” and, of course, they were “all-electric” to be there. The bride looked simply stunning in red veils, demurring her way through two hours of ritual and ceremony, kneeling, standing, circling, and kneeling again. Som looked dashing, proud and regal; and our staff who always wear t-shirts were transformed into Beau Brummels in their matching formal suits.   Wedding 1Everyone, including the sponsors and I were all tika’d, blessed with a dab of red coloring of yoghurt and rice placed on our foreheads, and then we were all promenaded to the bus to go to the wedding palace. This was a last minute arrangement, so Som was lucky to find a place as this was the wedding season. The 22 members of the wedding party crammed themselves into a minivan like it was a clown car, while others got into their cars or onto the motorcycle to reconvene at the hotel. That left a dozen of us to board a great big tourist bus which was the only obvious miscue: The wedding party should have gotten on our bus to begin with, and we should have been riding in the minivan!

Som’s house is centrally located so it wasn’t but ten minutes until we arrived at the Maharaja Hotel. There was another wedding happening behind the hotel and we were situated on the eastside. Outside, there was a small layout with an altar, offerings, and sacred fire burning. The bride was kneeling there under the blazing sun and after a few photos we deserted her to suffer with the bridesmaids and sought shelter from the heat in the open auditorium just behind her. As luck would have it, the power was out so someone started up the diesel generator which was so loud that it finally drove everyone indoors into the cool auditorium. The rest of the ceremony was performed indoors away from the heat and din.

The critical point of the wedding comes after the exchange of malas (necklaced garlands) and we all rush to the chow line. There were a dozen different offerings of rice, daal curries, nan, fish, chicken, and mutton, a respectable entourage of servings. As sumptuous as this array appeared, it could not compare to the amazing banquet spread of a wedding that Mary Jane and I attended last year of the daughter of a prominent restaurateur family. There must have been 50 chafing dishes of Western, Nepali, Chinese, Indian, Tibetan and even a Mongolian stir-fry. The piece-de-resistance was ice cream sundaes! Considering that Som and Nisha had only a day and a half to throw this together, they did a magnificent job, and we were all stuffed to the gills.

Honeymoon 3Except for the wedding, we wouldn’t be seeing much of Som until the next week as he would be taking his bride back to his family’s home village to meet his parents. He would fly out to his home village immediately after the ceremony with Nisha and also Uma (one of the nursing students who was ANSWER’s first sponsored child). Uma was to serve as a chaperone and maid of honor to Nisha as is the custom. You can imagine how a new bride taken back to live with the groom’s extended family might have been immediately set upon, put in her place, and exploited from the opening….a chaperone thus would provide some assurance of good treatment. In this case they weren’t retuning to live with Som’s mother and father, but to introduce her to the family. It was a quick overnight and then a long car ride back to Katmandu, so that Som could stop at towns along the way to visit schools! Combining business and pleasure is not just Som’s modus operandi; it is his sine qua non.  Of course, he made these arrangements without informing me, and the very thing I had warned him about: putting the job before his new bride was happening all over again.  Unless his bride has the strength and flexibility of a Mary Jane, I have real fears that Som thinks “his limits” are still the operative guidelines. Let us hope for the best.